CHARISMA OF INDIA
Neighbourhood: Wolseley
Address: 83 Sherbrook Street
Phone: 204-222-7878
Entrees: $11 – $23
With few exceptions, Indian cuisine is a dance of spices. A dash of cumin, cardamom and cinnamon are expertly combined into remarkably yet imperceptible concoctions that confound and delight diners. After two decades, Charisma of India’s varied and ever-changing buffet continues to draw regulars to its Wolseley location.
Though economic buffet eating has not lost its timeless appeal, an à la carte menu is also available for diners wishing to customize their own feast. A loaded basket of naan bread starts the culinary adventure. Though the soft chewy bread is irresistible, the wise will save slices for sopping up every bit of the spiced gravies later.
Fish pakora, a menu must, is among the best in the city. Fritter style boneless bites of fish, delicately spiced and coated in flour are fried to crisp flaky perfection. Pair with cilantro chutney for added heat.
The usual signature dishes found on local buffets – tandoori and butter chicken, chickpea curry, samosas – are all here and executed well. Though spice perfumes the air, flavours tease gently with heat. For a twist on the familiar, mango chicken makes a worthy shareable for the table, adding fruity sweetness to the lineup of curries.
Paneer lababdar, a northern Indian dish made with paneer (cottage cheese) and tomato gravy is another beautifully balanced dish. Sautéed tomatoes, onions and cashews layered with cumin, coriander and garam masala are transformed into a deeply savoury velvety sauce brimming with cubes of mild cheese – requiring that naan slice.
Heat seekers will find more in the vindaloos, with the scorch of chiles punctuating a rich goat version. Tomato and garlic notes enliven this rich meaty dish.
Though dessert for some may mean a third trip to the buffet, or a mango lassi with dinner, a selection of dainties makes a lasting sweet impression.
