BAR ACCANTO
Neighbourhood: St. Boniface
Address: 300 Tache Avenue
Phone: 204-505-0761
Entrees: $13 – $29
Wine bars play on a simple one stop spot notion providing a gathering place for those who like to raise a glass and expect thrilling dishes to match their sips. Last year’s addition, Bar Accanto, is splendidly straddling the line between bar and restaurant and is establishing itself as the new obsession.
Its list is filled with unfamiliar varietals and natural wines sophisticated enough for snobby oenophiles but approachable for the rest of us. Look beyond the tongue-tying menu of grapes and find dishes inspired by Asian flavours, featuring flawless technique and a bit of whimsy from pedigreed chefs Emily Butcher and Colin Naylor. The stylish corner spot shares a kitchen with Nola next door, and its attention to detail proves the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.
Everything is suitable to share; for a few bites and some for several more. Friendly servers step up with helpful tips. Nosh on innovative tuna crudo, brightened with preserved and fresh oranges, pickled chilli peppers and basil as you sip a crisp white. Avocado mousse interspersed between perfectly placed pieces of fish make for a cooling and masterful mingling.
Roasted cabbage delicately dressed with black (fermented) vinegar and chilli oil sits beside a walnut radicchio purée. Pecorino shavings add a final layer of funky depth to another exemplary plate.
A heartier vegetarian option, celeriac filled agnolotti, is expertly textured and, defying an odd list of ingredients of black garlic, labneh, celery, caraway and nori flecked granola, combines into comforting and novel bites.
Larger protein plates are substantial and as well executed as expected. Crisp pork belly juxtaposed atop the nuttiness of pumpkin seed and hemp mole is possibly the best version ever had by this taster.
End with genmaicha mochi for dessert and a deconstructed iteration consisting of mini green tea jelly cubes, playfully hiding below fluffy clouds of pineapple sorbet arrive with pieces of sponge toffee, a final expression from some cheeky culinarians.
