PASSERO
Neighbourhood: Corydon
Address: 774 Corydon Avenue
Phone: 204-219-7300
Entrees: $16 – $31
Five years after opening at the Forks, post a global pandemic, located in a new neighbourhood, Passero 2.0 helmed by chef Mitchell Mann marches at an impressively fast tempo to the beat of its own drum. Friendly, well-choreographed servers keep step, injecting warm hospitality into the score.
Warmly coloured wood walls and sleek modern furnishings lend a cozy feeling to the new spacious setting. Bar seats provide an
optimal view of cooks in the open kitchen assembling memorable dishes. The kitchen’s evolving innovative menu includes Mediterranean traditions in its dance with Italian cuisine. The chef’s obsession with the small stuff is revealed as the dishes roll out, teasing new flavours into dishes we thought familiar.
Lively salads contrast diverse textures in exciting mixtures. A mixed green salad featuring apple and celery is balanced with Marcona almonds and crème fraîche in a vibrant vinaigrette. Each bite bursts with sour, bitter and sweet crunch. Cute and crisp arancini is brightened with a sweet note of herbaceous green goddess purée. Cremini mushrooms mixed in the balls add earthy flavour.
Passero challenges norms of Italian food at its whim. A tangle of hand cut pappardelle, coated in short rib ragu is injected with dollops of zesty gremolata, adding intriguing citrus herb notes to the rich dish. Manchego shavings bring on the funk.
The seafood is pristine; close your eyes you’ll imagine you’re on the coast eating the daily catch of tuna (crudo), calamari (fritti) or octopus. Charred Spanish octopus is served on an unctuous potato cake, accented by romesco sauce and saffron aioli. Pickled peppers add piquancy to the perfectly tender meat.
Finish the meal with dark chocolate tart, sprinkled with sea salt on a bed of dulce de leche for a rich ending to a luxurious dinner.
