BULL AND FILLY
Neighbourhood: North Kildonan
Address: 1763 Henderson Hwy
Phone: 204-560-2946
Entrees: $22 – $35
Bull and Filly is a welcome addition to Winnipeg’s north end, elevating a strip dominated by chain restaurants, which makes it our choice for best new restaurant 2024. The name itself reflects a balance of rugged and refined, a theme echoed throughout the space.
Set within a vintage 1970s motor hotel, the dining room surprises with its elegant, country inn-inspired décor. Indigo and white tones, scenic toile wallpaper, antique wooden cabinets topped with tea sets, and an eclectic mix of framed artwork create a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. A blossoming silk tree in the center brings a whimsical touch of nature, adding to the room’s inviting charm.
The vision comes from Kris and Corinne Kopansky, seasoned veterans of hospitality industry. Following a long stint as manager of Brazen Hall in south Winnipeg, Kris, with his wife revitalized this space, filling a gap in the area for modern dining. Since opening in June, the menu has evolved to cater to local tastes, while still showcasing the kitchen’s ambition. Early on, the restaurant earned attention by winning this year’s “Le Burger Week” competition.
The menu strikes the perfect balance between homestyle comfort and culinary sophistication, with dishes that deliver bold flavours. At the heart of this is chef Tristan Foucault, who joined the team after Preservation Hall closed its doors. Foucault’s approach – rooted in rustic French cooking – proves to be a natural fit for the restaurant’s ethos.
Start with the French onion soup, where caramelized onions swimming in a rich scratch-made veal stock, serves as an excellent introduction to the kitchen’s mastery. The chicken, pork, and chicken liver terrine makes a hearty appetizer to share, accompanied with grainy mustard, pickled bean salad, and grilled crostini. The ricotta and chive gnocchi, another showstopper, is bathed in a roasted garlic and parmesan sauce. Mushrooms add depth and richness to the dish.
Familiar dishes have a place here too and the meat and potatoes crowd is well served. The 10oz sirloin, grilled and topped with red wine demi-glace, is served with Boursin-laced mashed potatoes, vibrant carrots, and haricot verts—a delicious plate and crowd pleaser. Steelhead trout, paired with nutrient dense farro, butternut squash, fried artichoke hearts, and a zesty lemon vinaigrette, offers a light and balanced alternative that demonstrates the kitchen’s dedication to creativity.
A slice of sweet lemon cream tart, drizzled with raspberry coulis, offers more than a sweet finish. It caps an experience that transports diners to another time and place through skillfully executed cuisine. Bull and Filly is a culinary gem in North Kildonan that brings rustic French inspired dishes with a welcoming atmosphere and fills a void at the same time. In doing so, it earns its place as a fresh and novel addtion toWinnipeg’s dining scene you won’t want to miss.
