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Edokko Japanese Review

EDOKKO JAPANESE

Neighbourhood:  River Heights
Address:  532 Waterloo Ave
Phone:  204-306-3333
Entrees:  $7 – $44

Sushi lovers know there’s nothing more consuming than cravings for tantalizing pieces of nigiri lightly dipped in soy sauce and sinus-stimulating wasabi. Helmed by one of the city’s most experienced sushi masters, Chef Masa Sugita, Edokko Japanese offers a menu teeming with small plates, traditional dishes and impressively prepared sushi to satisfy those hankerings. Chef Masa’s latest River Heights eatery reflects the current dining landscape, where exceptional dishes can be found in unassuming settings, often masking the mastery in the kitchen.

Cold appetizers like tako kimchee and tuna poke intrigue with bold tastes. Tender meaty octopus and crunchy cucumbers are lightly dressed in fermented kimchee with a hint of soy sweetness. The poke, with its buttery avocado and cubes of fresh tuna, is complemented by a subtly sweet sauce. Both dishes make for a delicious prelude to the parade of flavours to come.

Lunch specials here are simply spectacular, offering luxuries of a dinner date at midday. Sashimi and sushi tei are pictures of elegance, arriving in little ceramic dishes meticulously placed on a tray. Combos include a daily selection of sashimi, rolls and barbequed fish alongside rich miso soup and crisp greens. For something hot and comforting, opt for a hearty bowl of ramen, where the pork-rich soup broth– spicy miso, black garlic and shoyu based – is brimming with greens, black fungus, bamboo shoots, chashu, egg noodles and perfectly jammy egg.

The key to superior sashimi lies in its pristine freshness and Edokko nails it. Thick silken slices salmon, buttery hamachi and tuna require nothing more than a dip in soy sauce to highlight their oceanic essence.

Despite the eatery’s compact space, the menu is impressively diverse, with hot dishes that provide a satisfying counterpoint to the fresh and raw offerings.  Handmade pork and chive filled gyoza are packed with vibrant, savoury goodness, with distinct herbaceousness. The kiko misonaise is another stand out: two large oysters, charred to perfection, sit perched atop salt and are dressed in umami-rich miso mayo broth. Grilled fish preparations are particularly stunning; the sockeye salmon, cooked in a foil pocket with yuzu juice is topped with a julienned white radish and herbs, resulting in a tender tangy bite.

Edokko Japanese is a hidden in plain sight gem that should not be overlooked. Nestled on Corydon Avenue, this petite eatery is a must-visit for anyone seeking top-tier Japanese cuisine.