KEVIN’S BISTRO
Neighbourhood: Exchange
Address: 141 Bannatyne Ave
Phone: 204-221-5028
Entrees: $11 – $26
Since opening in 2018, Stella’s sister restaurant, Kevin’s Bistro has stood for luscious pastas and creative variations of childhood favourites. The menu of comforts, inspired by recipes served in homes around the world, reveals why this cozy spot in the Exchange District maintains its widespread popularity.
Delivering nostalgia is serious business at this warm nook. The restaurant’s namesake is Kevin the cat, depicted with some pomp in a framed painting, the only art on the walls of the narrow dining room. Al, the weekend piano crooner plays soothing old tunes over lively chatter and sounds from the kitchen; an audio track reminiscent of a large family gathering. Even the service, highly attentive and convivial, is a throwback to old school hospitality.
An ample list of sides and appies hits high points with twists on pub grub. Mediterranean lettuce wraps are a pleasant remake on a familiar Asian starter. Cajun seasoned chicken is tossed with roasted veggies and feta, drizzled with syrupy balsamic. A dollop of garlicky tzatziki adds kick before rolling the filling in iceberg.
Spanish inspired garlic butter shrimp – unctuous with a little red pepper heat from chile flakes – spark memories of happy hour at an ocean front beach bar.
Pastas and macs are a main event, redefined in novel and exciting combinations.Building on a gooey, creamy base recipe, different mac and cheese variations deliver wild interpretations that blend nostalgia with modern tastes. The Canadiana is speckled with smoky bacon and maple syrup, imparting sweet bites with a subtle salty edge. Old Dutch salt and vinegar chips add crunch and a tangy finishing bite.
Though we say an occasional carb-load is good for the soul, lighter eaters are not neglected. A fresh mélange of quinoa and Mediterranean salad fixings is a standout. Cauliflower crust flatbreads don’t sacrifice flavour either. Cuddling up with a modern plate of nostalgia proves the one thing better than a home-cooked meal is a Kevin’s-cooked one.
