GOLDEN LOONG
Neighbourhood: Fort Richmond
Address: 2237 Pembina Hwy
Phone: 204-504-6766
Entrees: $19 – $30
Every city has restaurants whose reputations travel farther by word of mouth than by curb appeal. Golden Loong is one of them. For more than a decade, the Pembina Highway restaurant has introduced diners to the bold regional cooking of Xi’an and Sichuan, offering flavours that reach well beyond the familiar canon of Canadian Chinese cuisine.
The first impression is decidedly practical. Behind a Domo gas station, where vehicles pull up to pumps only metres from the front windows, Golden Loong’s dining room prioritizes practicality over polish. Diner-style booths line one wall, while an open kitchen inherited from the building’s former life as a pizza shop keeps noodle making and dumpling preparation in full view. Takeout containers, water jugs and the daily tools of a busy restaurant occupy every available corner. The welcome, however, is immediate. Servers are attentive and generous helping diners navigate a menu built around lesser-known regional specialties.
The kitchen makes its argument quickly. Golden Loong’s hand-ripped noodles arrive as broad, chewy ribbons coated in chili oil and paired with pork, their warmth deepens gradually with each mouthful. By contrast, the stir-fried chicken noodles emphasize restraint, balancing tender chicken, crisp vegetables, garlic and a gentle heat that lingers.
For diners willing to explore, preserved egg with silken tofu is a revelation. The dark, translucent century egg may give some diners pause, but its deep savoury character and fermented richness are beautifully matched with cool tofu, sesame oil and scallions. It is a dish defined by contrast, where unfamiliar ingredients become unexpectedly harmonious.
The fish fillet in sour broth makes an ideal centrepiece for the table. Tender fish, pickled vegetables and bright acidity create a layered broth, while easily removable slices of Thai chili allow guests to decide how much heat to introduce. The sautéed eggplant delivers silky texture with a surprisingly assertive garlic spice, and the chicken and seafood with peanuts arrives beneath a dramatic mound of dried chiles that adds aroma and theatre more than fire.
Golden Loong does not compete for attention with polished surroundings or Cantonese mainstays. It rewards curiosity with dishes that reveal the depth and diversity of regional Chinese cooking. For diners willing to look beyond the modest surroundings, the payoff is a meal that feels surprising and rewarding.