SOUS SOL
Neighbourhood: Osborne Village
Address: 22 – 222 Osborne Street
Phone: N / A
Entrees: $14 – $39
Down a set of steps under an unmarked awning and past double doors reading “Vandelay Industries”, a nondescript swinging door opens onto a dreamy, charming world. Besides a few electric wall sconces, the romantic lighting is courtesy of wax-dripping tapers on every table and a low-lit chandelier. Mismatched antique chairs, and fussy patterned china play off winking touches like recipes from magazines and books of a bygone era adorning the walls and the hollowed-out novel that brings the cheque with an auspicious flourish.
The restaurant’s sense of humour makes its way onto the menu in the form of playful appetizers and wild cocktails, and sometimes one selection offers both; such is the case when selecting garlicky roasted bone marrow dotted with smoked honey and green sprouts. After every unctuous spoonful is devoured on grilled bread, an invitation to experience a bourbon shot poured ‘luge style’ through the bone’s center follows.
Meat is showcased in divine preparations that follow the tenants of haute cuisine. A lean wild boar chop topped with a cloud of sweet sautéed onions gains light spice notes from caraway. The richness of the light pink meat accented by a luxurious green peppercorn laced jus is exceptional.
Local fish is managed deftly, eschewing the standard root veggie plate partner for a novel alternative. An exquisite piece of blackened spiced pickerel, delicately tender and moist, sits atop a scattering of white beans dressed in a zingy citrus white wine vinaigrette, delivering a balanced novel match.
Indulgence is de rigeur for vegetable sides too, like the herb crumb-garnished charred cabbage perched on a pool of coconut, pumpkin, garlic crème defying aversions to the underrated crucifer, or the thinly sliced potatoes dauphinoise in rich onion cream sauce.
A puckering lemon tart topped with saskatoon compote, sweetened with whipped cream, ends the meal in the spirit of whimsy for which this restaurant is beloved. From entering the secret space to exiting, Sous Sol thrives on theatricality, and warmly welcomes those who seek it out.
