NICOLINO’S
Neighbourhood: Fort Garry
Address: 2077 Pembina Hwy
Phone: 204-269-5004
Entrees: $19 – $32
For more than 30 years, Nicolino’s has anchored the south end dining scene with contemporary Italian cooking that nods to owner Nick Zifarelli’s heritage while embracing Manitoba’s local bounty. It’s a place that understands tradition not as something frozen in time, but as a living framework that adapts without losing its soul.
The Fort Garry mainstay leaves red-checked tablecloth clichés behind in favour of modern graphic accents, soft neutral hues, and bare tabletops. Warm lighting glides across glossy tile and wood-clad walls, creating a relaxed, welcoming room where conversations linger easily between families, friends, and longtime regulars.
The opening plates arrive with confidence, delivering deep, generous flavours that set expectations high for what’s to come. Start with salsicce e gamberi: plump prawns and spicy pork bathed in a light tomato sauce sharpened with white wine. Briny capers punctuate the richness, while charred slices of rustic country bread beg to be dragged through every last drop. Wild boar takes a more refined turn layered over arrives crisp crostini and sharpened with shaved Romano. Both dishes hint at their pasta-driven counterparts later in the menu.
At Nicolino’s, classic preparations begin with house-made fundamentals. Sauces, dressings, breads, and desserts are all crafted from scratch, but it’s the pasta program that continues to earn near-mythical status. Daily-made varieties—from al dente fettuccine and spaghetti to tender lasagna sheets and pillowy gnocchi—form the backbone of the menu.
One standout pairs spaghetti with a glossy Marsala cream sauce studded with caramelized onions, wild mushrooms, and supple slices of chicken breast. Lasagna Emiliana stays true to its northern Italian roots, layering rich Bolognese with tangy béchamel and molten cheese for a deeply comforting result.
Seafood gets thoughtful treatment as well. A simply composed medley of buttery white beans supports a perfectly seared tuna steak, cooked divinely rare in the Calabrian tradition. Grilled zucchini adds texture and freshness.
Salads provide balance amid the carb-forward indulgence, without sacrificing cheese. A chèvre salad contrasts tangy goat cheese with sweet strawberries, candied pecans, crunchy quinoa, and mixed greens, all lightly dressed in honey mustard vinaigrette. The Sorrento salad, a fixture since the restaurant’s earliest days, remains a nostalgic favourite: salami and ham, ripe tomatoes, a scattering of mozzarella, and a restrained oil-and-vinegar dressing.
Dessert leans classic and comforting. End the meal Provençal-style with espresso alongside tiramisu or a crisp-edged cannoli or opt for the airy carrot cake finished with generous swoops of sweet mascarpone icing.
Nicolino’s earns longevity by refining what it does best, through consistency, care, and respect for tradition.
Nicolino’s is open Tue–Sat 11:30am–10pm, Sun-Mon Closed
